So you want to buy arcade PCBs? Things I learned along the way.

I'm fairly new into acquiring PCBs. I got my first candy cab only a couple years ago. I had a supergun previously and was focused on Capcom's Street Fighter 2 Super Turbo pretty much. The goal of posting are some things I learned recently about the various types of pitfalls about purchasing PCBs. I hope others add onto this so we as a community continue to make more informed decisions.

Here are things to consider.

1.. Is the board tested? Understanding the difference between tested and untested. A tested board is one that the seller has stated that it powers up and should be working. An untested board is just that, not tested. Untested boards may not be completely intact as well. It would be prudent to ask a seller to provide a couple photos of the board in question. There are multiple sites with board images for comparison. Here are a couple: "http://www.arcaderestoration.com/FindPcbs.aspx" and "https://www.crazykong.com/pcbs/"

2.. Is a board original or bootleg? Both will function. Some people care if a board is original or not. I personally like the idea of having an original board, there is usually more documentation on how to fix original stuff. If it doensn't matter a bootleg may save you a bunch of money.

3. Be clear about shipping and insurance. Some of this stuff is very expensive. It may be worth the extra 10% or so to get the item insured to cover damages.

4. Payment and etc. I personally prefer to pay with PayPal for merchant services whenever possible. I don't mind covering the fees. From my own experience, I had paid for a completely restored Super Neo 29. The seller had images of it and I believe he had all the intentions of shipping me the machine. Somehow things in the sellers' life got complicated and it kept getting delayed and delayed. I waited a very long time for this machine as this was and is something I really wanted. The seller suddenly stopped communication with me. I was fortunate enough to submit a claim with PayPal and was refunded the full amount.

5. Getting images of boards and cartridges really help with one's expectations as well. I've bought CPS2 boards sight unseen and I received cracked cases, broken pieces. It's understandable, some of these items have been in service for a long time. It's just good to know so your expectations are set.

6. Maybe learn to solder.I forced myself to learn to solder and it's been fun. I picked up a MVS-1FS board and the sound wasn't working. I noticed the board had capacitors on it. I did a search and found that there's a "cap" kit for that board. It's like 30 capacitors but I got it done. It took me like over 2 hours to get this done as I'm not very fast at it. It fixed the issue. I'm not saying all boards will be this easy to fix but I found it very rewarding to do.

7. Ask questions and read up on the various board platforms. Some boards may be susceptible to specific failures that might be easily addressed.

I'm by no means an expert and I welcome advice!

Thanks and good luck!

I think an addendum would be to avoid untested stuff unless you really feel comfortable with troubleshooting and repairs?

My experience is different. I am fairly new to the hobby myself. But I became Harvard educated in the school of arcade gaming because my 3rd pick-up was this and I had to learn fast with so much on my plate. Basically I was in over my head. I was fortunate in that when I came into the hobby, the market was still bottoming out and this forum here was just starting up. It's a great place for beginners and I am proof of that (used to be a MAME/HyperSpin guy).

I find there is a ton of value in the untested/non-working arena. But you better be slick and educate yourself if you make any forays into the untested/non-working arena. But I would say 95% of my untested/non-working pick-ups have been successful. That more than makes up for the times when I have been on the short end.

I realize now how fortunate I am for getting into this hobby when I did. Someone getting into this hobby even 1.5 years ago is no where near as lucky as the barrier for entry is so much higher now and so is the risk. So here is some wisdom I gained for approaching untested/non-working listings:

• I'll pass on untested/non-working stuff when:
  • I see other PCB listings from same seller being sold as tested/working
    • Why if other PCB's are tested working is one being sold as untested?
  • It's the seller's single listing on eBay and he/she hasn't sold anything else in a long long time
  • I look at the pictures for tell tale signs of a workbench setting, tools of the trade, lighting, optical magnification stuff, etc.
    • Good chance it is tested/dead
  • If it is an expensive or hard to acquire game being sold as untested, I'll pass generally but there are exceptions (see below)
    • No one gives up such a thing without tinkering
  • Listing is too descriptive
  • It's from China
  • If it is a cab and the setting is indoors in comfy man-cave looking environment
    • Usually this is a collector and knows it is time to dump a non-working/untested cab
• With the caveat of having the right price, I'll buy when:
  • I don't care to lose the money and am willing to take some risk
  • Seller's other auction listings are vintage shoes or whatever and the one or two PCB's are untested
    • Likely, the seller picked it up in storage raid
  • All items for sale are random PCB's listed as untested
    • Likely, the seller came up on a storage/operator raid and just wants a quick ROI and doesn't have a cab or know anyone that can test them fully
  • Seller is listing multiple PCB's of the same game as untested
    • Again, probably an operator/storage raid. This tells me the PCB's are from an operator that removed several of the same games from circulation after they stopped making money and moved them to storage where they were raided years later
  • I know the game is non-JAMMA standard and requires an adapter to test
    • Tells me legit, the seller didn't/can't test it
  • I need parts
  • It's in a garage next to the laundry machine
    • Probably been sitting there for years and the wife gave the man an ultimatum
  • If buying a whole cab non-working cab for a PCB, I weigh out the equity of the parts to determine if I can break even on the gamble

There is a ton of value if you go into the untested/non-working arena. Example(s):

1. My buddy @Kidkaos swooped up a UMK3 mint cab for pennies. Tuned out the fuse on the monitor was displaced.
2. I got a working Naomi NetDIMM set for $10 bucks, the local seller threw in what turned out to be Tekken 3 for free
3. After buying a working Sega Sports Shooting cab from a storage raider (older gentleman and his wife), he called me back and told me he had a twin set of Cruisin' USA cabs that wouldn't turn on. After talking and turning down his offer because I wasn't into the game, he ended up delivering them to me free a few weeks later because he needed to get rid of them. Turns out the AC cable was loose inside both cabs. I flipped them for $500 because I had to get rid of them. But gave the storage raider back $300 because I am a good guy.
4. I picked up two no sound SF2CE PCB's for $40 a piece over on KLOV. Both just required the Z80 to be replaced ($15 in parts)
5. I picked up an MvC2 Dynamo cab for $175. It had a loose power cable
6. I am also sitting on about $2k worth in JVS I/O boards which I got for $140 bucks with aun untested NAOMI Club Kart setup which turned out to be working after all

Just don't be a sucker (like this guy). Educate yourself on the games you want (or cabs) and when they turn up, you are prepared to take the risk. Helps a ton to meet people IRL that are into the hobby as a hobby. With some exception, be weary of the guys that are in the hobby as a business. Sometimes you meet cool people IRL in this hobby and make new friends along the way (@'jugu', @streetlights, @Kidkaos, @300wins).