Questions You Should Know about Thin PVC Edge Banding

The Bottom Line: 

• What is Edgebanding? Edgebanding covers up the unattractive edges of boards made from materials like particleboard or MDF, making them look clean and protecting them from damage. 
• Types of edgebanding include real wood veneer, plastic (PVC), and melamine. There are other options, but we will cover these. 
• Edgebanding comes in different thicknesses. Thin ones are good for a sleek look, medium ones are versatile, and thick ones offer extra protection for heavy use. 
• Zero-joint edgebanding technology allows for edgebanding that merges perfectly with the board, leaving no gaps or visible lines for a super clean look. 
• Tips for Success: Start simple, use tape if you don’t have expensive clamps to hold edgebanding in place, keep your glue and materials at a comfy room temperature, clean your tools regularly, and always choose high quality edgebanding for the best finish. 

When woodworkers started using MDF in place of the pricier solid wood, we all hit the same snag: how to hide those ugly edges. And it's not just about looks, because those rough edges can chip, let in moisture, and before you know it, your hard work starts to fall apart. 

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Edgebanding gives manufactured sheets that finished look we are all looking for. But getting it's got to be just right, or it'll stick out like a sore thumb. You've probably noticed how even the smallest mistake can make a big difference. Once you see a gap or a bit of glue that shouldn't be there, you can't unsee it.  

We all want our work to look as perfect as possible, not just for our own satisfaction, but because the folks we're making it for expect nothing less. 

So, whether you're wondering what materials to choose, about the best adhesive to use, or just looking for some pointers to up your game, let’s talk about edgebanding.

Edgebanding with Hardwood Veneer 

Choosing the right edgebanding is key when it comes to fine furniture, custom cabinetry, or any woodworking project that demands top-notch appearance. You want to match the wood type, of course, but also the grain pattern and colour. 

Wood veneer banding comes in two types: non-glued (raw wood) or pre-glued. Prefinished has a sealer and topcoat already applied, which can save you a step if you're looking to get to the finish line a bit faster.  

Craftsmen Hardwoods offers both pre-glued and non-glued veneer edgebanding. 

You can also find many species of wood banding with a thin backing, like fleece or paper, to prevent it from splitting.  

Alternatives to Veneer Edgebanding 

While veneer and solid wood are our go-to materials, there’s a whole world of colourful bands out there, including PVC and melamine.  

PVC Edgebanding 

PVC (polyvinyl chloride) is a budget-friendly option that's common in the furniture world. Its colour goes all the way through, which comes in handy when you're cleaning up those edges. PVC Edgebanding is suitable for all straight-line and contour edgebanding applications.  

When you think of PVC, black or white are probably the colours that come to mind. However, PVC edgebanding is available in a huge variety of colors and textures. Look at our Benjamin Moore colour match collection—you’ll find everything from teal to navy to olive. We also have paintable PVC edgebanding which you can spray or hand-paint to match your finished piece.   

Edgebanding Thickness 

Edgebanding is available in a wide range of thicknesses, from as thin as 0.4mm (about 0.02 in) to as thick as 3mm (about 0.12 in) or more. Choosing the right thickness depends on the project's specific requirements and the intended outcome. Here are the general guidelines. 

• Thin Edgebanding (0.4mm to 1mm): This is the most commonly used size range and the go-to when you’re aiming for that sleek, almost invisible edge. It’s perfect for furniture that’s all about finesse or if you’re shooting for that minimalist vibe. Plus, it’s flexible, bending around curves without putting up a fight. 
• Medium Edgebanding (1mm to 2mm): This is your middle-of-the-road option that does a bit of everything. It's got enough muscle to protect the edges of your project but keeps things looking sharp. For most furniture and cabinetry work, this is your sweet spot. It’s reliable and versatile. 
• Thick Edgebanding (2mm and above): This is what you want when you’re building something that needs to stand up to a beating. Commercial settings, high-use furniture – thick edgebanding has got it covered. It’s great for hiding those not-so-perfect edges too. The trade-off is that it’s a bit stiffer and more noticeable. 

It’s also important to consider the material of the substrate, the type of edgebanding application (straight, curved, post-formed), and the desired look and design of the project. Sometimes, going thicker gives you that extra durability and hides the rough spots, but it can also change the feel and look of your piece. 

Making It Stick 

Whether you're sticking with the tried-and-true or looking for the cutting edge, knowing your options can make all the difference in your edgebanding projects. 

Edgebanding Adhesives 

Whether you're working out of a garage or running a full-scale shop, the basics of sticking edgebanding to your projects pretty much stay the same. You're mainly looking at a few types of hot-melt glue: ethylene vinyl acetate (EVA), polyurethane (PUR), and amorphous polyolefin (APO).  

• EVA works a lot like the white and yellow wood glues we've all used, except it's heat-activated. This means it sets faster than those water-based glues we're used to, but it's not without its downsides. EVA creates a mechanical bond, which is strong but can re-melt under heat, something to think about depending on where your project will live. 
• PUR is newer and pricier but gaining in popularity. PUR grabs onto your edgebanding and the substrate fast, creating a solid layer in seconds. Over the next couple of days, it reacts with the moisture in the air to form a super-strong, chemical bond. This bond is tough against heat and moisture, making it perfect for places like bathrooms and kitchens. Plus, it's less visible and doesn't re-melt, keeping your edges looking sharp and clean. 
• APO is like EVA but doesn't handle heat or chemicals well. Where it shines is in customization, as you can adjust its hardness, stickiness, and curing time, making it great for working with paper and fabric. 

Zero-Joint Edgebanding 

The bane of any edgebanding job is that visible glue line that seems to attract dirt like a magnet. Zero-joint technology offers a solution.  

Zero-joint edgebanding uses a pre-applied polymer layer that bonds to your board without traditional glue. Whether it's activated by laser, hot air, or NIR, this method melts the functional layer and fuses the edgeband directly to the board. Suddenly, you've got a seamless surface that looks like one piece, with no glue lines in sight.  

Edgebanding Tips 

Let's talk shop and dive into some edgebanding tips. 

1. Start Small 

If you're new to the edgebanding world, don't feel like you have to go all out with a fancy machine right off the bat. Iron-on/preglued edge tape is a great starting point. From there, you can try a portable edgebander. 

As you gain experience and tackle more edgebanding projects, you might consider leveling up to a machine that doesn't just apply the band but also trims, softens edges, and even integrates with a CNC setup for a slick, almost hands-off operation. 

Once you've got a couple of projects under your belt, you might consider leveling up to a machine that doesn't just apply the band but also trims, softens edges, and even integrates with a CNC setup for a slick, almost hands-off operation. 

2. Save on Edge Clamps 

For those of you working with solid wood edgebanding, you know the struggle of keeping it in place while the glue sets. Edge clamps can get pricey, and sometimes brad nails just aren't an option.  

Grab some masking tape. Stretching a 4″ to 5″ piece over the edge every few inches can give you enough clamping pressure to secure that banding nicely, saving you from spending a small fortune on clamps. 

3. Watch the Temperature 

Glue-line failures are often down to not using enough glue, using glue that's too cold, or working in a space that's too chilly. The fix? Keep your glue and edgebanding in a spot that's warm, but not hot, to ensure everything bonds like it should. 

The company is the world’s best Thin PVC Edge Banding supplier. We are your one-stop shop for all needs. Our staff are highly-specialized and will help you find the product you need.

4. Keep It Clean 

Using an automatic or semi-automatic edge-bander? Keeping your machine clean is important. After you've got the bearings and cutters clean, consider using a product designed to prevent glue build-up. It's a simple step that can save you from a world of frustration by keeping those jams at bay. 

5. Use Quality Edgebanding 

Don't skimp on the quality of your edgebanding. High-quality materials make a big difference in the result. We've got you covered with wood veneer, PVC, and melamine options. Whether you're aiming for a custom look or a perfect match with your panel material, going for the good stuff will help you achieve the finish you're after. 

Final Thoughts 

We've covered the importance of choosing the right materials, whether you're leaning towards the natural warmth of hardwood or exploring the versatility of alternatives like PVC and shared some practical tips and tricks to help you tackle common challenges. However, we understand you may still have questions. 

Was wondering if anyone had a similar problem or some insight on a banding issue.
So I have a scm basic one bander and when applying real wood veneer tape it occasionally doesn't cover the edge of the work piece. It happens more often towards the end of a roll, but still 30 percent of it left. If it was consistent around the last 50 feet I would just scrap the roll but it will happen even at the start of roll. Ive thought it was a bad roll with a weird coil memory but it will happen on all wood rolls. Experimented with the first pressure roller and checked to make sure it wasn't a worn bearing or clutch and it seems fine. Especially due to the fact it puts pvc on like a champ.

I am not familiar with your bander, but we were having a problem with wood veneer tape. Our issue was that it would ride up, usually toward the end of the piece.

We looked at everything probably like you have. We came to the conclusion that we were putting too much pressure on the part and it was being forced down and once we lessened the pressure, it does seem to help. I suggest you caliper the part and check your set up.

Sometimes the wood tape is the problem. I've seen tape that one edge is longer than the other. Take the wood tape and place it on a flat surface as if you were applying masking tape. If it tends to want to go in an arc, then one side is longer than the other. I have more trouble with maple than other species.

Most suppliers have both 7/8 and 15/16 readily available.

So I wanted to update my post with a typical frustrating edgebander day.

Paul; I checked the pressure on the work piece, was slightly off but I adjusted but no luck

Phil; I made sure the lead guide was set just enough for the tape to pass. But I also rigged another guide 6 to 8inches away from that one to assure straightness and the tape remained flat for atlas the entry

Bruce; I am running 15/16 tape but my bander doesn't have dip chain adjustment. At least I've searched and don't see any. If anyone has one of these dinosaurs maybe they can chime in on that aspect. If I could lower the tape placement I think my problems would be solved

Jon; have you found the "best" brand for the tape. I am using dolken now but every roll seems to act the same.

The only light at the end of the tunnel has been setting the front pressure roller so its just enough to catch the tape and not slips off. Parts are all mdf core and cut on cnc so I am pretty confident they are not causing any issues. Again if anyone operates or experience with this machine I would love to pic your brain concerning the conveyor adjustment to see if I can get the tape centered upon application

Tim,
I have a basic one also. The 23 hold down rollers were really worn out, cracked and falling apart. I had a similar problem you are having until I replaced those worn rollers. I have not had any tape run off since replacing them. In my situation the tape was usually running off in the middle of an 8 foot length and then
might straighten out by the time it got to end. They are about $23 bucks each from SCM.
Hope this helps,
Al

We had this exact same problem on a brand new Brandt (new as of Jan )

Was mind-numbing frustrating. Almost shut us down several times just because we couldn't band paint grade. Happened on 0.5 and 1.0mm wood.

Almost never happened on PVC.

Had all 4 of my best machine-minded guys in the shop get utterly stumped at it.

Sent Service Tech #1. He was totally baffled. Suspected the press roller was not square to the beam. Measured it, found it to be fine by his eyes. Gave us a temporary workaround that amounted to having the band held almost excessively tight before it hit the glue spreader and press roller.

Service Tech #2 came. He pulled the machine apart more than Tech #1 did, at the press roller. Measured for square in a different way, and found the press roller was 3mm out (!!!!!).

He corrected it, problem solved.

Since then, we've had maybe one every few months happened that we chalked up to odd band grain, but if it gets more frequent, we'd check for square again.

I would absolutely pull that machine apart (as needed) and check your press roller for square. You know your machine better than I do, so you will have to decide the right way to measure it.

Are you interested in learning more about PVC Edge Banding for MDF? Contact us today to secure an expert consultation!